If you’re reading this it’s likely that you have been overwhelmed by the amount of information out there about curly hair and how to care for it.
That’s understandable especially considering curly hair guides are so contradictory. This is because there are so many different curl types and there is ‘no one routine fits all’.
What works for you may not work for someone else. In saying that I as a specialist I don’t carry a million different products in my kit. I have a select few that I am confident in using to get the best results for all curl types.
When choosing your products you need to take into account the density of your hair. Some people can load their hair with products and their hair is still bouncy. Others curls are weighed down by them.
So what would I recommend as a hair specialist?
Firstly, if you don’t already know you need to work out what curl type you have. Wavy hair is type 2. Bouncy curls are type 3 and coils/tight curls are type 4. The level of that type is then graded in a, b and c.
A being the loosest version of that type and c being the tightest. For example someone with 3b curls will have a bouncy full curl whereas someone with type 2b with have a medium wave. Regardless of the routine you follow I will always recommend a silk pillow case/silk sleep caps. A microfibre towel and diffuser hairdryer attachment. The silk pillowcase/sleep caps will keep your hair from frizzing during your sleep. The microfibre towel will also help with prevention of frizzing.
How you wash your hair is important.
This goes for those with or without curly hair too. Sulphate free and alcohol free shampoo and conditioner is a must. This will clean your hair without stripping it of its natural oils or leaving films and residue behind and not dry out your hair. Curly hair needs moisture. A detox shampoo in between your usual shampoo is also advised to avoid product build up especially if you are using a lot of different products.
Shampoo your hair twice and only your scalp where you can as shampoo will dry your ends out. The rinse from the suds and water should be sufficient enough to “clean” the ends. To get the most of your shampoo put a small but reasonable amount in damp hands and keep rubbing until the soap has formed a thick paste that covers them, this actually activates the ingredients.
Your shampoo and conditioner should contain ingredients like almond oil, coconut oil or avocado oil. I do not recommend companies such as aussie and herbal essence. Just because the bottles say hydrating and for curly hair does not mean they are good for your hair.
Personally I would suggest curl wow, the shampoo range from only curls, Gorgiemane and the purple range from hair burst. Obviously there are other options but these are personally my favourites. You will notice the difference in your naked curls when you find a good shampoo and conditioner.
When you condition your hair, leave it in while you continue to wash in the shower. Let your hair soak in as much of the product and moisture as possible. Apply the conditioner to the ends and brush it through your hair. This will make sure it’s evenly spread throughout your hair and if you have particularly curly or knotty hair this will help detangle. Remember your hair is most fragile while wet so don’t tug too hard. Rinse your hair and put it straight into a microfibre towel be careful not ring or rub the excess water out of your hair at this stage.
Like I said, above the products that you use will be determined on the density of your hair.
The most popular method is to leave your hair dripping wet and scrunch in a cream, gel and mousse. A cotton tshirt is also popular with the plopping method. Personally I feel this is too many products. I also don’t see why you have to have your hair that wet – if the products you are using are as hydrating as they claim to be there shouldn’t be a reason for your hair to be that wet. In my opinion this just leaves mess, takes forever to dry and the curls often still feel crunchy or are weighed down. You should be able to get much better results with less effort.
My Philosophy is that you don’t want to put too much in your hair. natural curls should be effortless, it’s what your hair naturally wants to do right? I want my brides to have lightweight curls that look like they have no products. My go to for more define curls (3c to 4c) is the curl wow range from colour wow. It is a two-step process that focuses on the natural oils of your hair and light weight products to prevent your curls from being weighed down! No crunch. No product residue. Just light fluffy curls or the Gorgiemane curl cream for the rest.
So how do I use these? After the hair wash, using a micro fibre towel to gently remove the excess water. Your hair needs to be slightly wetter than damp but not dripping. Avoid rough drying with the towel. This will just cause knots and damage to your hair. you want to gently squeeze the hair so it’s no longer dripping. Depending on the length and density of your hair will determine how much product to use.
I recommend starting light and increasing if needed. You can always add but not take away. With the Curl wow range start with flo-erty. Brush the product through your hair then shake the ‘Shook’ bottle well before spraying this evenly over the hair and ends. At this stage you will either need brush in your curls (see below). Scrunch or twirl your hair before you dry it.
With Georgieman, I copy the process but replace with the cream then diffuse dry. I do not follow this up with any other products. Personally I feel this works well enough on its own. Due to the nature of my work I don’t carry leave in conditioners as they can be difficult to work with when doing hair ups.
When you dry/diffuse your hair it’s recommended to use the pixie method. This is basically laying your curls into the diffuser, either while upright or with your head upside down and lifting them towards your head. This will add volume at the root. To help dry the rest of your hair diffuse around your head close to your hair hovering around it allowing the heat to reach all over. Never rub the diffuser against your scalp or move the diffuser around when it’s touching you’re hair as this will create frizz. You should be using a low heat on a low airflow setting.
Root lift is still possible without hair mousse. It is in the technique of how you brush and dry your hair. While your hair is wet and your adding in your cream or serum brush the product though. Section your into layers and use a brush. Denman D3 or D4 styler brushes are highly recommended but to be honest most brushes and combs can get you similar outcomes. Brush your hair from underneath at the root and twist your hand and brush as you go though the lengths. This will help with defining the curl. Continue up your hair line towards your parting. Scrunch your hair and diffuse with your head upside down to encourage the root lift and set the curls with extra bonuce.
Curls Only have a great starter kit if you would like to try the full gel/mouse/cream routine instead.
If you’re sleeping with your hair loosely tied up and in a silk cap or on a silk pillow you should get a few days from your curls before you will need to refresh them. This can be done by spritzing them with water and scrunching/curling your hair again.
It’s important to keep your hair healthy and hydrated especially with curly hair. If your hair is lightened or you straighten it a lot. Use the right type of deep conditioning mask. For example: Using a hydrating mask when your hair is damaged isn’t going to do anything, you will need a repairing mask.
Straightening your hair regularly will damage your curl pattern. Always ensure you use heat protection and if you would like to wear your hair straight I would recommend blow drying it straight with a brush instead. Although you can get your curl pattern back. There is a lot of work involved.
